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Thread: DIY Drip System

  1. #31
    Moderator inkbull's Avatar


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    tetra brand dip strips have a clorine test on them
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  2. #32
    DIYFK member edri's Avatar


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    I will check if tetra chlorine test is available in lfs. Thanks bro.

    Another question, do i need to waterchange if I have a drip system? Like 30% waterchange once every other month? Or completely no waterchange?

    Thanks bros.

  3. #33
    Moderator inkbull's Avatar


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    the point of the system is zero manual water changes cause they happen automatically daily id think the onlything u would have to do is gravel vac very rairley
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  4. #34
    DIYFK member edri's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by inkbull Click here to enlarge
    the point of the system is zero manual water changes cause they happen automatically daily id think the onlything u would have to do is gravel vac very rairley
    Thanks for the reply bro!

    So its basically zero waterchange. All I have to do is change filter floss and enjoy the hobby. This is awesome.

    The only problem is the chlorine of the municipal water. I hope 1 carbon block is enough.

    Thanks again bros!

  5. #35
    Moderator inkbull's Avatar


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    the carbon will need replacing too
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  6. #36
    DIYFK member edri's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by inkbull Click here to enlarge
    the carbon will need replacing too
    Noted. Monthly replacement of carbon block is enough right? I will be doing 24gal per day drip btw.

    Thanks again bro!

  7. #37
    Moderator inkbull's Avatar


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    im not shure how long the carbon will last im kinda in mid process of setting a drip system up myself but im pretty shure the carbon block will last longer than a month someone one here will have more experience with this i think it depends on the gallons pushed threw the block per month and the amount of clorine and heavy medals in your tap water so i think everyone will have a bit different number but their has got to be a general rule i just dont know it
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  8. #38
    DIYFK member edri's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by inkbull Click here to enlarge
    im not shure how long the carbon will last im kinda in mid process of setting a drip system up myself but im pretty shure the carbon block will last longer than a month someone one here will have more experience with this i think it depends on the gallons pushed threw the block per month and the amount of clorine and heavy medals in your tap water so i think everyone will have a bit different number but their has got to be a general rule i just dont know it
    Noted bro. Will check on the manufacturer of the carbon block for the limit of each block.

    Thanks bro! Goodluck setting up!

  9. #39
    DIYFK member edri's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by inkbull Click here to enlarge
    im not shure how long the carbon will last im kinda in mid process of setting a drip system up myself but im pretty shure the carbon block will last longer than a month someone one here will have more experience with this i think it depends on the gallons pushed threw the block per month and the amount of clorine and heavy medals in your tap water so i think everyone will have a bit different number but their has got to be a general rule i just dont know it
    Noted bro. Will check on the manufacturer of the carbon block for the limit of each block.

    Thanks bro! Goodluck setting up!

  10. #40
    DIYFK member edri's Avatar


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    Hi guys,

    Its me again. I have a incoming 5ft length x 2.5ft width x 26inches water depth (202gal) tank with 5ft x 2ft x 12inches water depth sump (93gal) and I am going to apply 24/7 drip system. How many gallons per hr is suitable for this tank and sump size? is 1gph enough? or I have to increase it to 2gph?

    Thanks guys. HFK!

  11. #41
    Divine Moderator Divinehammer's Avatar


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    I would go with .5 gph which would give you 84 gallons of water changed every 7 days which gives you a 28% water change a week ruffly anymore is really a waste of water and your filter if you went with a gallon per hour that 168 gallons of water per week which is like 57%, that's a lot of water going down the drain. most filter should say how many gallons of water they are good for so you should ruffly be able to figure out how long your filter is good for before it needs to be changed.
    Canadian Pleco lover! Soon to be built DIY 2000 Gallon RTC tank, Go Big Or Go Home!

  12. #42
    DIYFK member edri's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Divinehammer Click here to enlarge
    I would go with .5 gph which would give you 84 gallons of water changed every 7 days which gives you a 28% water change a week ruffly anymore is really a waste of water and your filter if you went with a gallon per hour that 168 gallons of water per week which is like 57%, that's a lot of water going down the drain. most filter should say how many gallons of water they are good for so you should ruffly be able to figure out how long your filter is good for before it needs to be changed.
    Noted bro. Will go for .5gph to save money for the water and filter.

    Thanks a lot bro! HFK!

  13. #43
    DIYFK member RyanV's Avatar


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    Guys I have found something I think might work really well for removing chlorine in the drip systems! Check it out please, tell me what you think of it: http://www.rvwholesalers.com/catalog...FYYWMgodoQUAFA

    My next question was how long it lasts before needing to be changed, so I googled it and they said it can last up to 3 years!

    Has anyone else tried KDF filters?

  14. #44
    DIYFK member kitana's Avatar


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    How would one install a drip system (combined with an overflow to remove excess water directly to the drain) when the main tank is drilled, with a sump that is underneath it, and it is in a basement with the nearest drain higher than the sump? I guess the overflow for teh excess water would need to be in the sump, but in what part, close to the return pump? Would modifying the plumbing of the drain to allow the excess water to enter the pipe at a lower level be asking for trouble, example having water flow backward in the overflow when the drain is in use?

  15. #45
    Divine Moderator Divinehammer's Avatar


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    nope the water goes in the main tank and excess or old comes out at the sump using an over flow or bulk head in the side of the sump at a certain level, if you basement drain is higher than the sump for your tank it will not as water will not flow up hill on it's own. You would have to hook up some kind of a float switch and a pump or use a bucket on the out side of the sump so you can carry the water to the drain when the bucket is full.
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  16. #46
    DIYFK member fbi's Avatar


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    Looks like I got here a little too late.

    A few points to consider with the video:
    1. On a Well, you should filter your water through a Sediment filter, if it isn't already, BEFORE your drip system (I don't think it was in the video). I have two running my entire house household.

    2. I don't think carbon filters out Chlorine. However, there is a filter that does. It matters more on the size of the molecule it's letting through.

    3. It's recommended that a house filter be changed every 3 months. Personally, my sediment filter has been on nearing a year with no change in pressure. So I'm suggesting to read the packaging and make an educated guess.

    I don't know the technical term for these filters, other than canister, but RCan is one company that sells/makes them here in Canada. They are about 40-50$. (Home Depot, Home Hardware, Etc.)

    Hope this helps!
    -B

  17. #47
    Divine Moderator Divinehammer's Avatar


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    Carbon filter do remove Chlorine, the reason you change the filter every three months is activated carbon can only absorb stuff for so long before it start leach what it has absorbed, a sediment filter just removes loose particles in the water like minerals and floating junk like mold and spores, bugs ect. if you want to eliminate everything from the water then a reverse osmosis system is needed.
    Canadian Pleco lover! Soon to be built DIY 2000 Gallon RTC tank, Go Big Or Go Home!

  18. #48
    DIYFK member justinpollonais's Avatar


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    That is very good to know. Thank you kind sir/madam

  19. #49
    DIYFK member justinpollonais's Avatar


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    Joey, I remember in the vid you said to connect a carbon filter if you have treated municipal water but idk how to connect the regular faucet carbon filter to the pressure reg. is there an adapter or something for it?

  20. #50
    DIYFK member justinpollonais's Avatar


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    Looks pretty good to me

  21. #51
    DIYFK member WickedIntent's Avatar


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    First of al I didn't understood a thing,but now I seen the video 2nd time and it became much more intelligible Click here to enlarge
    But I still think if I should or should not do this setup,given the fact that my aquarium is in my bedroom and my water source/draining hole is in my kitchen Click here to enlarge
    By the way,if I do a PVC overflow system,can I hook an hose to the PVC and go with the Hose to my draining hole,and also it will be effective if the draining hole is at about 10 meters away from the aquarium?And same with the hose for the drip system,it will be effective if the water source is at ~10 meters away from the aquarium?
    Anyway,good video and thanks you!

  22. #52
    Divine Moderator Divinehammer's Avatar


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    lets clarify a few things a drip system is designed to be used on a large tank 100+ and on a tank with a sump style filter, the system is designed to provide a constant flow of fresh water into a large system, where any clorine has a chance to dissipate without effecting anything, and where doing large water changes are not practical because of the long period of time it takes, by no means is it used as a replacement for doing weekly maintenance on your tank, ie gravel cleaning, filter cleaning and such. on a salt water system there is a lot of evaporation so a top up system is required to keep your system full. that being said unless you have a huge tank and sump system of several 100 gallons or more it's not really worth the time and effort to go with this.
    Canadian Pleco lover! Soon to be built DIY 2000 Gallon RTC tank, Go Big Or Go Home!

  23. #53
    DIYFK member WickedIntent's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Divinehammer Click here to enlarge
    lets clarify a few things a drip system is designed to be used on a large tank 100+ and on a tank with a sump style filter, the system is designed to provide a constant flow of fresh water into a large system, where any clorine has a chance to dissipate without effecting anything, and where doing large water changes are not practical because of the long period of time it takes, by no means is it used as a replacement for doing weekly maintenance on your tank, ie gravel cleaning, filter cleaning and such. on a salt water system there is a lot of evaporation so a top up system is required to keep your system full. that being said unless you have a huge tank and sump system of several 100 gallons or more it's not really worth the time and effort to go with this.
    Well,thanks you for clarifying me(hope this is correct).Anyway,this system is still interesting and if I will ever have an bigger tank I will try this Click here to enlarge
    Again,thanks you Click here to enlarge

  24. #54
    Owner UaruJoey's Avatar


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    Just to be clear here folks..

    A carbon filter most certainly does remove chlorine. It does so threw chemical adsorption. This is not a matter of opinion, but fact.
    Click to view-->My personal DIY projects

  25. #55
    DIYFK member ziggy2's Avatar


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    does anything remove chloimine?

  26. #56
    DIYFK member Meep's Avatar


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    Activated carbon will not 'remove' chloimines but given enough contact time (a lot) it will catalytize the compounds and in essence remove them... But, this contact time is measured in several minutes, so your typical inline carbon filter will not do the job**, you will need to use another method to effectively remove them... Catalytic carbon works faster, but still requires about 1/4 the contact time to effectively do the job...

    **on a slow drip system an inline filter might very well be enough as the water will have lots of exposure time as long as the carbon is fresh...

    You really need to explore other filtration systems like RO/DI if you want effective removal of everything...

  27. #57
    DIYFK member trachr's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Divinehammer Click here to enlarge
    lets clarify a few things a drip system is designed to be used on a large tank 100+ and on a tank with a sump style filter, the system is designed to provide a constant flow of fresh water into a large system, where any clorine has a chance to dissipate without effecting anything, and where doing large water changes are not practical because of the long period of time it takes, by no means is it used as a replacement for doing weekly maintenance on your tank, ie gravel cleaning, filter cleaning and such. on a salt water system there is a lot of evaporation so a top up system is required to keep your system full. that being said unless you have a huge tank and sump system of several 100 gallons or more it's not really worth the time and effort to go with this.

    If I may ask... why exactly is a 100+ gallon aquarium required? Ive seen fish breeders use drip systems on 20Ls and even 15s before, granted most wont go 1g per hour but .5g or .25, but overall why wouldn't this work? Or was the tank size in reference to dealing with the chlorine which on the smaller tanks would need well water or a good filter before the water hits the aquarium.

  28. #58
    DIYFK member usacomp2k3's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by trachr Click here to enlarge
    If I may ask... why exactly is a 100+ gallon aquarium required? Ive seen fish breeders use drip systems on 20Ls and even 15s before, granted most wont go 1g per hour but .5g or .25, but overall why wouldn't this work? Or was the tank size in reference to dealing with the chlorine which on the smaller tanks would need well water or a good filter before the water hits the aquarium.
    Exactly. You answered your own question.

  29. #59
    DIYFK member Richemmers's Avatar


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    Is there a way to do this with only a small amount of water entering every tank, or do you have to use over flows. If you do have to use over flows, is there a simple overflow other then the one joey made for the sump?

    If I was to do over flows I would want them all to be connected to one pipe that will go into the drain

    Thanks

  30. #60
    Banned byrdman75's Avatar


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    The reason you use overflows is because no matter how good you are you can't account for evap. So the overflow is used to drip any excess water so the tank won't over flow, I've been looking at this a lot too but I have no drain near by

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