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Thread: bottom pane separating?

  1. #1
    DIYFK member Fishbike13's Avatar


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    bottom pane separating?

    New here, Hi everyone!

    SO i am in the process of replacing the frames and re-sealing a 75 gallon AGA aquarium.

    As i was scraping the bottom seal out, i found a section about 6 inches long that a razor blade will easily fit between the bottom pane and the front pane(i did not use force, its as if there is no silicone there)

    My question is, do i need to completely remove and re adhere the entire bottom? or can i get away with shooting new silicone in between the panes, then re seal over it? I think i know the answer already, but if theres any tricks out there im game to hear them. TIA

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    DIYFK member FLDave's Avatar


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    New Silicon will "not" adhere properly to the old so.......Click here to enlarge

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    DIYFK member HillbillyHomer's Avatar


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    What Dave said! i would redo the hole tank!


    PS Click here to enlarge...Welcome to DIYFK...Click here to enlarge

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    DIYFK member Fishbike13's Avatar


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    I don't see any issues with any of the other joints, and the bottom will be able to be removed without separating the sides. So maybe ill take a closer look, but if the other seams are without imperfections, i may just let them be. The tanks will have new top and bottom frames, as well as new interior seals.

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    DIYFK member Fishbike13's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by HillbillyHomer Click here to enlarge
    What Dave said! i would redo the hole tank!


    PS Click here to enlarge...Welcome to DIYFK...Click here to enlarge
    Thanks! and yeah ive gathered that Dave's input is valuable from what ive seen lurking on the board. Was just hoping that i wouldn't have to disassemble the tank, i just want to get it up and running! However patience is a virtue.

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    DIYFK member FLDave's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Fishbike13 Click here to enlarge
    Thanks! and yeah ive gathered that Dave's input is valuable from what ive seen lurking on the board. Was just hoping that i wouldn't have to disassemble the tank, i just want to get it up and running! However patience is a virtue.

    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

  7. #7
    DIYFK member Fishbike13's Avatar


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    So i found more voids int he silicone, and evidence of past leaks, so ive decided to take your advice and re-do the entire tank.

    My question here is, the sides have small clear spacers between the panes, similar to tile stand offs. To replicate these i was going to apply a small dot of silicone and let it cure for 24 hrs before assembling the glass.

    To the point: there are no spacers between the sides and bottom (sides on bottom configuration) would it be a good idea to add some? I am pretty confident that the weight of the sides will push most if not all of the silicone out.

  8. #8
    DIYFK member HillbillyHomer's Avatar


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    i would do the entire tank without spacers.

  9. #9
    DIYFK member Meep's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Fishbike13 Click here to enlarge
    To replicate these i was going to apply a small dot of silicone and let it cure for 24 hrs before assembling the glass.
    You run into the same problem, old silicone won't stick to new, skip the spacers...

    If you absolutely need to create a space for better alignment, since it was built this way originally... Then do this, create some outside wood corners (when I say corners I mean a few L brackets maybe one top and bottom on the glass, not an entire length wood corner) then using a small amount of hot glue (use cheap hot glue) assemble all the sides using these wood outside corners on the outside hot glued, JUST USE A SMALL BLOB OF GLUE on each side of the L bracket don't go hog wild, now you have all the glass sides aligned, and from the inside (since there is a gap) you can now squeeze silicone into that gap and out the other side instead of traditionally one panel at a time and squishing, be generous so as to push out all air pockets... Then continue to build the tank, in one fluid process so it's build with fresh silicone bonding to fresh silicone... Once the entire tank is built, you can take a putty knife and carefully cleave off the wood corners, sometimes even just tapping them with a hammer will cause them to pop off (obviously be very careful not to hit the glass!!!) Now take a razor blade and go around the outside of the tank trimming off all the excess silicone you squirted out and you should be done with a clean build that maintains the original gap between the glass...

    Cheap hot glue won't stick well to glass, it will stick plenty well to hold but a quick blow or a putty knife will almost always cause it to break away clean without much hassle...

    Or just build it without gaps if possible...

  10. #10
    DIYFK member Fishbike13's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Meep Click here to enlarge
    You run into the same problem, old silicone won't stick to new, skip the spacers...

    Or just build it without gaps if possible...
    The dots would have been smaller than the width of the glass as to completely surround them, and my guess for the gaps is to prevent glass from touching glass so as to not create pressure points when any flex is induced to the panels. But if no gaps wont do any harm then i suppose i could do that.

    Thanks for the help!

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