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Thread: Converting Overflows into In-tank filters

  1. #1
    DIYFK member Ricenes's Avatar


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    Converting Overflows into In-tank filters

    Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums but a long time aquariumist. I currently have a 180G with an FX5 for my FRT (and a few fish but not many) and just got a 360G acrylic from a friend. For various reasons, I've decided to put the tank very low to the ground and not use under tank filtration. Instead, I'm going to convert the 2 in-tank overflows/returns into in-tank filters. One side will be fluidized K1 and the other the mechanical/chemical. I'd love to hear if anyone has any suggestions on my plan.

    First off, the compartments are 18" x 8" and 22" to the top of the overflow. The two top images are side views. I hope they make some sort of sense...

    Filter setup.jpg

    1. Cut out part of the bracing to access the overflow. I plan to leave 3" from the side which should be plenty of support.
    2. Remove the plumbing/bulkheads for the overflow/return and cover the holes with 3/4" acrylic that will be secured in with silicone.
    20180822_165616.jpg
    3. Drill intake holes BELOW the overflow so water flows from here and not the overflow. Holes will be 3/4" and I'm thinking x15 each side should be enough.
    4. Cover the overflows with a strip of acrylic/silicone so the water only flows through the intake holes.
    5. Put in baffles as shown in the diagram. My question is: If my water level outside the filter is 21", then should I put the baffles to the to of the overflow?
    6. For the K1 side, I'm hoping to only put ONE baffle to separate the K1 from the return pump. The intake will go straight into the K1 compartment. Thoughts? Should I have a layer of mechanical?
    7. Each side I'm thinking of using an EcoPlus 1056 pump. I know I should have higher G/hr but I won't have a huge bio load. Each side will have a heater as well but the room usually stays 70-80 degrees so the water temp is about that.
    8. I'll use light grid to make stands in the mech/chem side for the bottoms.
    9. For the K1 side, I'll put 2 air hoses on each side to circulate the material.
    10. The compartment will be 6 gallons so I plan to use 3.6G of K1for 60% bio material and 40% water.

    That's about it I think... Once I solidify how I'm going to do this, I'll start a post with the build. But here's a teaser of my custom aluminum stand! That tank will sit inside the frame on the base and the frame will hold a wood canopy.

    20180829_183507.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Filter setup.jpg   20180829_183507.jpg  

  2. #2
    DIYFK member HillbillyHomer's Avatar


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    Will silicone hold on the acrylic?

    P.S. Click here to enlarge...Welcome to DIYFK...Click here to enlarge

  3. #3
    DIYFK member FLDave's Avatar


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    Hi and welcome....Click here to enlarge

    Listen to anything Homer tells ya................he hasn't lost one yet.....Click here to enlarge

  4. #4
    DIYFK member Ricenes's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by HillbillyHomer Click here to enlarge
    Will silicone hold on the acrylic?

    P.S. Click here to enlarge...Welcome to DIYFK...Click here to enlarge
    I got the idea from one of Joey's videos... He made baffles and siliconed them in so if he wanted to remove them later he could. I could do a test with some acrylic scraps if there's doubt.

    I'm thinking of silicone because if down the road I want to put the piping back in I could.

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