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Thread: 1350 watt water heater for under $10?

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    DIYFK member manunkind's Avatar


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    1350 watt water heater for under $10?

    Hi there!

    are there any reasons not to use these in my sump? I'm thinking of running it through a thermostat to heat up the water for my 300 gallon (work in progress). These are $10 a pair on eBay.

    http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-1350W-110V-...wAAOSwCp5XgFvb
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpeg  

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    Moderator RBrown's Avatar


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    you will need a aqua state rated for that amount of watts to control them. the biggest problem is keeping them from touching anything that could melt.
    Ferengi
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    #217 You can't free a fish from water.
    The Unwritten Rule: "When no appropriate rule applies... make one up!

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    DIYFK member FLDave's Avatar


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    "My opinion".......I have seen carpet cleaners use equipment like this to heat water for hot water carpet cleaning extracting equipment and I can tell you that you have to be every attentive as you can actually "boil" water with these. I don't see any control (other than your fingers/eyes) that would give you any accurate control over temps.

    I would not use anything like this anywhere near aquarium equipment.....

    Again, just my opinion....Click here to enlarge

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    DIYFK member manunkind's Avatar


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    Thanks, you're right, these are a little power-hungry. I can get same product rated at 1100 watt, and a inkbird itc-308s thermostat can handle it- available and homebrew shops for $40. I'm planning to use a 50 gallon Rubbermade for a sump, amd the heater can be suspended off a bar connected to two sides of the sump. We'll see. Similar setup with Enheim products is nearly $400.

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    DIYFK member manunkind's Avatar


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    I understand, obviously i would never use these withouta reliable thermostat. I'm brewing beer, and Inkwell makes a number of reliable thermostats, such as ITC-308S. If i keep the brobe in the actual aquarium, and the heater in the sump i should be okay. Perhaps go down to 1000w from 1350w. With a 300 gallon setup it should be okay... Or so i hope.

    There will always be a possibility of an accident- look what happened to Joey's rays.

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    DIYFK member FLDave's Avatar


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by manunkind Click here to enlarge
    I understand, obviously i would never use these withouta reliable thermostat. I'm brewing beer, and Inkwell makes a number of reliable thermostats, such as ITC-308S. If i keep the brobe in the actual aquarium, and the heater in the sump i should be okay. Perhaps go down to 1000w from 1350w. With a 300 gallon setup it should be okay... Or so i hope.
    There will always be a possibility of an accident- look what happened to Joey's rays.

    AMEN......

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    DIYFK member Meep's Avatar


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    IMO not worth the savings, way too easy for something to go wrong, fail or have them short out as they are not designed for extended use or permanent submersion...

    Thanks, you're right, these are a little power-hungry.
    One thing to note about this is that in this case for electric heaters and simplicity, is that Watts and Degree of temperature lift run parallel... Meaning that a 1500W heater will simply heat the water 3 times faster then a 500W heater as long as they can compensate for ambient loss... Both will use the same amount of electricity (within reason) to raise the water temp the same level, the 1500W will just use it faster but for 1/3 the time, while the 500W will use it slower for 3 times as long, in the end the total amount of electricity used is nearly identical to maintain a certain temp regardless of the Wattage...

    As said though this assumes the heater can readily overcome the ambient loss of heat efficiently, as an example, in a livestock tank during winter, a 500W heater might never be able to reach the 40 degree F shut off point due to loss of heat to the air, thus it would run 24/7 trying to get to that 40 degree point, while a 1500W heater would be able to reach that 40 degree shut off within 20 minutes then turn off for an hour, actually saving your electricity... In the end this is why it's important to 'oversize' or at least properly size the heater to the job...

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    DIYFK member manunkind's Avatar


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    Thank you.
    I went ahead and bought 1000w heaters and running it with ITC-308 thermostat in a 30 gallon Rubbermaid container. So far, it holds the temperature of 80 Fahrenheit +/- 3 degrees. In terms of failure - the heater itself appears invincible. The simplicity of its construction pretty much excludes the possibility of failure - in order for ot to short out, it would have to be left out of water. ITC-308S thermostat is something I've been running for years in home brewing, and I know it to be very reliable (albeit a little ugly). Will wait and see. While savings aren't astronomical, I'm starting to have more faith in this stainless coil than in a flimsy sand-filled glass tube...

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